Gucci's most significant campaign – a tribute to Northern Soul featuring an all-black model cast. How extraordinary. Love every piece and every thought.

A different direction from the sci-fi vibe last time m, this is an exploration of black masculinity and Dandyism. The house was further influenced by iconic 60s photographer Malick Sidibè renowned for his black and white studio portraits in Mali, as well as Northern Soul , a 60s movement inspired by black American soul music that made clubs like the Wigan Casino famous. Featuring dancers as well as models, they pull moves true to the splits and backdrops associated with the subculture’s dance style.  

Glen Luchford shot the campaign entitled ‘Soul Scene’ only features people of colour – and comes at a time when fashion brands are under increased scrutiny for the lack of diverse casting on their runways. 

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Magenta light enhanced by a disco-ball aura bathed the upper gallery of the Grand Palais, the zigzagging runway felt more like a path to the dance floor, evoking midnight this line is sultry at best.

With this collection, Alexandre Vauthier gave every indication that he enjoyed the process of reviving the excellence and exuberance of ’80s haute couture. "The idea is take the best from the past to advance forward," he explained of his throwback glamour. So he toyed with asymmetric nipped-and-tucked volumes; treated draped colorful lamé like liquid metal; and turned necklines into grand canyons. But it wasn’t just about sexy special effects; the tuxedo jacket paired with city shorts, polka dot silk organza minidresses, and gauzy white shirts ruffled with extra flourish were simple ideas executed to peak Parisian panache and topped with a stylized fez. Vauthier put it best: "Excessivement chic." 

A rewind in time was not done better. 80's revival. Alexandre, the great. TH

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A fashion amusement at this moment is watching women dressing like the boys outside the last NY menswear shows—and in every case, beating them at their own game. A witty sartorial sparring match has been going on between male and female dandies on the streets of London, Florence, Milan, and Paris. Women, naturally enough, are outnumbered dozens to one, in the menswear business but that hasn’t stopped more than a few of them going shoulder-to-shoulder with the guys in suits—two- and three-piece alike, shirts, ties, fedoras, brogues, and all. The tactic is working for making heads swivel in the crowd as this is definitely not about chameleon dressing, it's life. Nik (the model seen above) and I have collaborated in the past, but this one is special as our thoughts occured while surveying the scene—firstly, how comfortable women look, nipping about their business unencumbered by crippling heels. Women in menswear are simply comfortable and chic, the movement toward clothes not being segregated by gender is here to stay. Absolutely. TH

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This supermodel moment is owing to Gianni Versace. This was the epitome of fashion. For the finale of his Fall 1991 show, he sent Naomi Campbell, Linda Evngelista, Cindy Crawford and Christy Turlington  down the runway,mouthing the lyrics to Freedom by George Michael.

An instant sensation with no Instagram! Decadent. Embellishments. Collectibles. Fashion history. Forever Gianni.

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The Miu Miu presentation was like a party. The collection picked up where Miuccia left off: with jumpsuits. Short or long, in an orange compact knit, in all manner of silk prints, in navy satin, in gingham, and in sturdy cotton with the torso and sleeves cinched at the waist. Many of them featured patches with the name Marilyn stitched on them, as in Monroe, presumably; "Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend" was one of the oldies but goodies on the soundtrack. Prada mashed up body-repair-shop uniforms with Hawaiian prints and a good number of furs featuring trompe l’oeil intarsia patches and delicate bracelet sleeves.

Now you can get an all-in-one from just about every brand out there these days. What distinguishes Miu Miu’s are those patches, the strass embroideries, and the special pieces they were paired up with. This is a brand, like its family  label, that has become very clever about creating identi f iable, and hence collectible, items. 

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