Saturday, 14 April 2018

MCQUEEN | Fall 2018

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Sarah Burton’s affinity for the natural world is well known—it’s something she shared with the late, great, Alexander McQueen. Burton has continued to be loyal to the memo ry of her once boss and friend. She’s carrying on his tailoring heritage with magnanimous success. Pantsuits are selling, she said. For Fall, their origins could be traced back to the uniforms of the British Royal Horse Guards, with square-cut military horse blankets forming wraps. I love that there were calf-length, high-heeled riding boots to match.  But there was more than this narrative thread going on. Over time, Burton has been listening and adapting McQueen shows to make them more relatable. Her inclusive casting this season had models of color and various ages—her new normal for the brand. 


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Monday, 12 March 2018

C H A N E L | Fall 2018 RTW

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Karl Lagerfeld is nostalgic, there were ’70s-esque dresses with billowy sleeves, high necks, quite magnificent in my opinion. Usually he isn’t a rearview mirror person, but more than a generation ago, before the new crop like the Hadid sisters or even Cindy’s spawn, Kaia Gerber was born, Karl Lagerfeld was dressing supermodels in Chanel sequinned scuba-suit jackets and mega-size hip-hop CC-logo jewelry in the ’90s. 


He surprised me by adding the puffer coat. Hmmm, ‘the Black Influence’®️©️ yet again.



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Saturday, 24 February 2018

VERSACE | Fall 2018

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80’s Glamour. Who better to bring it back? Donatella Versace. She lived it, she triumphed through it. Last season’s retrospective for her brother Gianni was so good, every piece was as spectacular as the genius he was. 


The play on classics this season, the trenchcoat, the schoolgirl shirt collar, the tartans! The house amazingness continues, in the 80’s the hair was such a focus, now the head coverings is set to reinvent the spirit of glamour. With one accessory, Donatella remains currently significant, the years of bouncing Cindy blowouts now becomes political. The  tightly-wound jersey scarves and dark glasses rendered the ultimate visual impact. Subliminally, they signaled a lot of things which are now up for consideration. Donatella  said that to her, those pieces meant "mystery". She and Gianni were always open to diversity and nothing has changed. Today, inclusiveness takes in the fact that there are so many cultures in the world where modesty is STILL a standard.

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