Thursday, 17 March 2016

Saint Laurent

Is Hedi Slimane’s saying goodbye? Or is it the beginning of a new and reconstituted, haute couture house? 

Whichever it may transpire to be—Hedi Slimane’s was a full-on shock: a collection which pushed the ’80s shoulder to a pinnacle of upstanding exaggeration, drove glittery hemlines up, plunged necklines, belted waists with flourishing side-bows, poufed skirts, clad legs in sheer black tights, and put feet into stiletto pumps. What with the slicked-back hair, red lipstick, and triangular earrings, it read as a sublimated 21st-century throwback to every Helmut Newton–era Vogue shoot fashion remembers. 

There was an homage to Yves Saint Laurent in every look, yet the collection was just as uncompromisingly faithful to the ultra-ultra-skinny youth aesthetic which Hedi Slimane has pushed in fashion for his whole career.