Thursday, 28 July 2016

Nenette Lepore


Lepore is a designer who likes to have a good time: She enjoys making clothes that women can wear, pieces that they can dance in or bounce from a black-tie event to a brunch in. 

Like Rome, which she described as a place where “women wear fishnets while riding Vespas,” Lepore’s new Resort collection has a sense of unhinged romanticism. Black lace, a fabric that can be reminiscent of a mourning nonna, looked alluring whipped into a turtleneck with bell sleeves. There was a fresh, jaunty element to the lace when it came in white, as it did on a carefree bohemian frock with tassels dangling from the collar. Embroidery was a standout touch; fat red roses were stitched onto a black zip-up jacket and down the middle zipper of a curve-skimming body-con dress. Leopard print looked chic in the form of a décolletage-dipping blouse, and was further elevated with a black lace trim. Rome or not, it’s the kind of piece made for fun.



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Friday, 22 July 2016

Todd Snyder


“Think playboy meets tourist. I’m taking a detour.”
The detour became abundantly clear with the first look, a crisp green Harrington jacket, made in collaboration with Champion, worn with repurposed jeans (Re/Done Levi’s), sneakers (New Balance), and tinted nerd-style glasses (Moscot). A collaborative pileup, to be sure (add to that an archival Timex watch), and certainly not a bad idea in a men’s season marked by multiple collaborations, both in the sports and luxury arenas. The branding opportunity that first gained traction in the 1990s, it would seem, is showing no signs of slowing down. Love.

Millennial decade. TH
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Tuesday, 19 July 2016

Robert Geller SP2017 menswear


Again embracing his German roots, Robert Geller looked to the early ’80s music scene of Berlin for Spring, in particular New Wave. He channeled the unbridled “raw creativity" of Nina Hagen, Einstürzende Neubauten, Palais Schaumburg, and other German-speaking bands—before the tidal wave of the London punk scene. A mix of high and low, loud and reflective, merry and melancholy, it worked beautifully.
Squatters played a key role in the city’s social unrest, and by extension its artistic milieu, in those discordant years before the Berlin Wall was finally razed. In a re-created squatters’ lair, complete with graffitied and poster-plastered walls, Geller sent out tone-on-tone leopard jacquards and muted floral prints resembling “old-school tattoos,” as well as rather louche pieces—tanks, vests, jackets, shorts—in black velvet or washed cupro. 

The words Aus Lauter Liebe, loosely translated as “from loud love,” appeared in frayed letters on the back of one jacket, reflecting Geller’s dual impulses. Sic!

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Assembly New York | Spring 2017

Former gallerist, Greg Amas is forward thinking, he maintains an emphasis on craft and design regardless of trend.

TH

 





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