Tuesday, 19 July 2016

Robert Geller SP2017 menswear


Again embracing his German roots, Robert Geller looked to the early ’80s music scene of Berlin for Spring, in particular New Wave. He channeled the unbridled “raw creativity" of Nina Hagen, Einst├╝rzende Neubauten, Palais Schaumburg, and other German-speaking bands—before the tidal wave of the London punk scene. A mix of high and low, loud and reflective, merry and melancholy, it worked beautifully.
Squatters played a key role in the city’s social unrest, and by extension its artistic milieu, in those discordant years before the Berlin Wall was finally razed. In a re-created squatters’ lair, complete with graffitied and poster-plastered walls, Geller sent out tone-on-tone leopard jacquards and muted floral prints resembling “old-school tattoos,” as well as rather louche pieces—tanks, vests, jackets, shorts—in black velvet or washed cupro. 

The words Aus Lauter Liebe, loosely translated as “from loud love,” appeared in frayed letters on the back of one jacket, reflecting Geller’s dual impulses. Sic!