Friday, 2 December 2016

ALTUZARRA

Altuzarra's starting point this season was the Pre-Raphaelites and what he described as their “devotion to nature”—not a big leap from the cherries and lemons of his Wild at Heart–theme Spring 2017 lineup, but softer and more sophisticated. A botanical print dress with long, belled sleeves, gently belted, and featuring a fuller-than-usual skirt will be the Altuzarra number you see all the editors in next September. On the tailoring front—an essential part of the company’s business—he made a point of adding newness, either by cutting a blazer and kick flares in a vibrant orangey red or rethinking other jackets with zip closures, rounded shoulders, and kimono sleeves lifted from Victorian-era styles.

 

Another woman-friendly idea: making cocktail dresses and other special event pieces at more reasonable prices. “I think women are feeling that everything has gotten too expensive,” he remarked, before ushering out a zip-front vest paired with embroidered organza kick flares, an embellished tunic-slash-minidress silhouette, and a silver sequin sheath, all of which will come in significantly less than the finale gowns he typically closes his shows with. In fact, there was a pair of floor-length dresses, but they were considered in their own way, with removable sleeves that lent them not just flair but also versatility.