Tuesday, 29 August 2017

SADE | the other photos, the same icon


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Sade is a perfectionist. In the early 80's before her iconic journey, she insisted on cutting her first album down to nine tracks from the original fifteen songs. The label wanted to send a few tracks to the US for some "cool" mixes but she refused, saying the album was exactly how she wanted it. Success: being yourself. This is the significant lesson we can take from the woman that is Sade.

She was good at realising the bigger picture, right from the start. While recording, she worked with the label's PR and marketing departments, using her background in fashion and creative writing to crop pictures and look at copy – not allowing a sentence, snapshot or picture to go out unless it fitted. Once the album was released it was apparent that the label had been right in allowing Sade to hold the reins. Diamond Life went top10 all over Europe and sold more than 10 million copies worldwide. And Sade sounded like nothing else.

She looked like no one else. Still... TH




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Thursday, 24 August 2017

Francesco Scognamiglio | fall 2017 couture

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Francesco Scognamiglio skipped the couture runway in Paris this season, opting for an intimate presentation in his Milanese atelier. He was in a reflective mood. "I wanted to concentrate more on couture’s real values: the personal relationship with my clients, who need privacy and attention; the unique creativity that goes into every outfit. Couture must remain the undiluted peak of craftsmanship," he mused. After a Parisian Couture Week that proved to be the most democratic to date, throwing its arms wide open to the whole fashion spectrum, from New York labels to high jewelry presentations, Scognamiglio’s attitude felt positively Old World. The designer presented a tightly edited lineup, conveying his high-end message through a fashion shoot in which Italian photographer Giampaolo Sgura lensed statuesque model Hilary Rhoda, her classical beauty complementary to Scognamiglio’s theatrical baroque style.


"Couture clients are discreet; they don’t crave publicity," said Scognamiglio. The designer adores weddings; he actually started his career as a wedding couturier in his atelier in Pompeii in 1998. Obliging couture tradition, for the collection’s finale he concocted a pair of long white dresses. They were a triumph of crystals and exquisite silk lace intarsias, copiously appliquéd on sheer, sexy mousseline that revealed just so. Couture clients may indeed be discreet, but only to a certain extent.

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B A L L Y x Swizz Beatz

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Set to debut in-store and online in October, Bally Collective will include a selection of ready-to-wear garments curated by Beatz, as well as a roving collection of shoppable artworks chosen for display in each of Bally’s retail outposts by the likes of Ricardo Cavolo, who also designed a pair of Bally sneakers for the collaboration. For Beatz, a prolific art patron and creator of his own Dean Collection of artworks, the partnership is an opportunity to connect with artists. "I encourage creatives to sharpen up on their business, because you can’t have art without business," he told us. "There’s the art business, the music business, the fashion business, so let’s gear up and make better situations for ourselves and stop playing victim. For me, art is my life. I breathe it, eat it, sleep it—it is me, I am art."


Following dinner, Beatz led a snaking line of guests that included wife Alicia Keys, last New York Fashion Week: Men’s ambassador Young Paris, and Public School designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow to the hotel’s basement for a performance by Slick Rick and Doug E. Fresh. The two legendary rappers are both credited with thrusting the heritage brand back into the limelight after frequently appearing onstage in the 1980s wearing Bally suede sneakers. To top the nice off, guests were treated with a performance by both A$AP Rocky and A$AP Ferg. "Bally is back." 

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Sunday, 6 August 2017

GUCCI | all black models - Pre-Fall 2017 ʟᴏᴠᴇ

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Gucci's most significant campaign – a tribute to Northern Soul featuring an all-black model cast. How extraordinary. Love every piece and every thought.

A different direction from the sci-fi vibe last time m, this is an exploration of black masculinity and Dandyism. The house was further influenced by iconic 60s photographer Malick Sidibè renowned for his black and white studio portraits in Mali, as well as Northern Soul , a 60s movement inspired by black American soul music that made clubs like the Wigan Casino famous. Featuring dancers as well as models, they pull moves true to the splits and backdrops associated with the subculture’s dance style.  

Glen Luchford shot the campaign entitled ‘Soul Scene’ only features people of colour – and comes at a time when fashion brands are under increased scrutiny for the lack of diverse casting on their runways. 


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