Sunday, 17 September 2017

MARC JACOBS | Spring 2018 RTW

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Can we read something into the fact that the models walked to the sounds of their shoes on the old wood planks of the Park Avenue Armory. And at the end Diva played. When Diva w as released, old school movie critic Roger Ebert argued in his four-star review that the movie was about many things, but that it’s real subject was the joy director Jean-Jacques Beineix took in making it. Is Marc over the business of fashion?


Jacobs wrote his own summary of this collection, the program notes called it a "reimagining of seasons past somewhere beyond the urban landscape of New York City." Who is Marc  in the last 25 years? He designed the only grunge collection that mattered—the one that got him fired from Perry Ellis and launched his career in Spring of 1993. That's like ond hundred years ago. In fashion.


Back to the moment at hand, this collection was beautiful to watch. However, for some reason I was ahhh ... sad that the silk turbans were made by British milliner, Stephen Jones. Don't ask me why! I guess I just wanted to see ALL of Marc. Does anyone remember that he'd put Kate Moss in a silver turban the year they cohosted the Met Ball. Somehow this didn’t feel as happy and youth as then. Was this collection meant to be a greatest collection.


I wasn't totally disappointed though, Jacobs returned to the archives through "exaggerated, decadent, and exotic" filters. Fanny packs, gi ant daisies, crayola colors, tinsel trimmings, and a whole lot of sequins. What can I say, the soundless room played a huge part. The mood and emotion made one think. Is Marc retiring? Is he going out of business? I'm sure the set up of this show was intentional. There's a message, but did we get it?!  The Marc Jacobs show was silent.