Elsa Schiaparelli

history

  • Italian. 1890–1973.
  • Fashion Designer.
  • Greatest rival, Coco Chanel.
  • Regarded a prominent figures in fashion.
  • Started with knitwear.
  • Influenced by surrealist, Dali and Cocteau.
  • Main client, actress MAY WEST.


now

Schiaparelli did not adapt to the changes in fashion following World War II and as a result her couture house closed in 1954. In 2007, Diego Della Valle acquired the brand and Marci Zanini, appointed in September 2013 revived the brand in a big way. Let’s begin the review of this couture collection.

It’s 2020, more than six months since Daniel Roseberry joined the house of Schiaparelli and he  has returned the brand to the contemporary-art world. When asked about his move to Schiaparelli he replied, “it was a crash course in all things,” Roseberry explained about his tenure, amid fittings on the eve of his second haute couture presentation, “in Paris, in couture and the inner workings of the atelier.”

For the spring couture collection, it’s evident that Roseberry focused on the personalities of Elsa Schiaparelli. He explained that he began planning the collection by looking at images of Schiap (nickname) at work in her studio dressed in her daytime outfits. These he contrasted with “the incredible Surrealist night time parties that she threw”

Day and night outfits with a severe but sweet difference. I’m an introvert-extrovert idealist so when Roseberry mentioned embracing this extreme I took an intense closer look at the collection.

The result is stunning, Schiap’s favorite items the iris flower, her tape measure (from the packaging of the original Shocking perfume bottle), the padlock were all visibly present.

Tailoring and highlighted pieces in the form of the most classic navy pantsuit, a boxy tan beige spencer jacket and a lean buff, nude coat bursting with a Sun King Lesage embroidery motif on the back were key looks in the show.

Those “psycho chic” day clothes, as Roseberry described them, went right into evening pieces – all extravagant and ambitious. Authenticated 80s and 90s couture work. This is work in progress that begs for our attention. By 2021 we’ll be drooling over this brand and what it personifies. I’ve highlighted the organic DETAILS of this very fantastical show.

TH