fashion / 25.09.2015

It's official, I'm obsessed with Proenza Schouler. They have achieved huge success with accessories for such a young brand, but the duo behind the label has never been known for having the same touch with shoes. Sure, Proenza’s footwear has been notable from time to time, but they’ve never had the sort of breakout hits that make shoe lovers flock to them season after season. Some people in the industry think that the shoes from the Proenza Schouler Spring 2014 runway show are set to be a turning point.Since bringing on hotshot American fashion investor Andrew Rosen, Proenza has sought...

fashion / 21.09.2015

I arrived in New York that Friday night only to hear that Riccardo Tisci’s 9/11 Givenchy show was contemplative, or at least set out to be; the good news was that it was totally open to the public. The bad news; I didn't attend. I got the scoop  though. That'll be a different post! On the hand a week later Marc Jacobs’s show was a vociferant, exuberant affair. Both got the public involved: It’s still hard to score access, but the shows are less and less an insular, insiders-only experience. Circumstance forced Jacobs out of his usual venue—sometimes the Army needs the...

fashion / 17.09.2015

West worked with performance artist Vanessa Beecroft for the second season going. Like last time, street-cast models mixed with professional ones, and Kylie Jenner, the designer’s sister-in-law, put in a cameo. Unlike last time, West and Beecroft made the military metaphor literal, enlisting real drill sergeants who called out formations. Platinum-blond, fair-skinned models came first and marched to the end of the runway to pose for pictures. As the show progressed, the clothes shaded from beiges and taupes to browns and blacks, and the models’ hair and skin tone got darker, with the darkest models and clothing coming last. At...

fashion / 16.09.2015

"Sometimes I feel like it’s futuristic to go into the past.” - fashion quotes from designer, Kate Mulleavy. She and her sister, Laura, spent the summer immersing themselves in Elizabeth Barrett Browning, Emily Dickinson, and Leonard Cohen, while listening to Electric Light Orchestra’s early synthesized, sparkly music. It seems to have put them into a kind of a ’70s-nostalgic trance from which their best collection in a long time proceeded—a kind of soft glam-rock tenderly sewn into immensely intricate ensembles trailing long silk scarves and an aura of Old Hollywood glitter in its wake.It wasn’t all dresses. The floppily louche...