fashion / 26.12.2016

Iceberg’s reset button has been hit again; James Long, the label’s London-based menswear designer, was recently appointed womenswear creative director, succeeding the Austrian Arthur Arbesser. Pre-Fall was the first collection in his new role, which will be followed in February by a show of both lines during New York Fashion Week. “It’s a new chapter,” said the designer.Iceberg has a substantial knitwear archive, thanks mainly to the genial pop imagery envisioned in the past by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. “Of course I’d like to celebrate its spirit, the cartoons, and the sporty vibe. Yet I’m trying to add true Italian sophistication...

Designer / 18.12.2016

Practical magic.  This collection was heavy on frills, all of Walker’s tops and dresses were ruffled one way or another, with the effects ranging from the heavy-duty froth of her off-the-shoulder dresses and tops to the flirtatious touch of ruffle on a metallic leather jacket or otherwise austere black silk frock. The sweetness of all those ruffles was counterbalanced by the lineup’s homespun elements—its sharply cut, deep-blue denim; ochre-toned chinos; and generous helpings of gingham and plaid. Even the winsome unicorn print got a bit of humility when rendered in heavy-duty muslin. This was one of those Karen Walker collections where...

Designer / 03.12.2016

Altuzarra's starting point this season was the Pre-Raphaelites and what he described as their “devotion to nature”—not a big leap from the cherries and lemons of his Wild at Heart–theme Spring 2017 lineup, but softer and more sophisticated. A botanical print dress with long, belled sleeves, gently belted, and featuring a fuller-than-usual skirt will be the Altuzarra number you see all the editors in next September. On the tailoring front—an essential part of the company’s business—he made a point of adding newness, either by cutting a blazer and kick flares in a vibrant orangey red or rethinking other jackets with...

fashion / 08.09.2016

Kanye West’s Yeezy Season 4 The show at the Franklin D. Roosevelt Four Freedoms Park is one of the least known, most spectacular spots in New York City.Rolling our eyes, we waited in the 83 degree heat. The official start time was 3:00 p.m., but we took our seats more than an hour later, not long before West’s extended family made their entrance at around 4:13—it was another 20 minutes or so before the first model hit the runway. West lost a few editors before that who thought the street-cast models in flesh-tone bras, boy shorts, bodysuits, and other stretchy athleisure...

fashion / 18.08.2016

This has to be the sweetest vintage-inflected, wearable line I have seen all year! Showing in one of its stores, this season the Danish favorite sent forth an army of faintly Stepfordian dolly birds, all pink cheeks and bouncing, lustrous locks, sporting crest-emblazoned suiting, spangly Lurex knits, ruffled bib sweaters, flared trousers, and yes, even a fannypack or two. Likewise, floral pussybow blouses and pajama dressing had plenty of appeal. MY FAVOURITE✨...

fashion / 28.07.2016

Lepore is a designer who likes to have a good time: She enjoys making clothes that women can wear, pieces that they can dance in or bounce from a black-tie event to a brunch in. Like Rome, which she described as a place where “women wear fishnets while riding Vespas,” Lepore’s new Resort collection has a sense of unhinged romanticism. Black lace, a fabric that can be reminiscent of a mourning nonna, looked alluring whipped into a turtleneck with bell sleeves. There was a fresh, jaunty element to the lace when it came in white, as it did on a carefree...

fashion / 22.07.2016

“Think playboy meets tourist. I’m taking a detour.”The detour became abundantly clear with the first look, a crisp green Harrington jacket, made in collaboration with Champion, worn with repurposed jeans (Re/Done Levi’s), sneakers (New Balance), and tinted nerd-style glasses (Moscot). A collaborative pileup, to be sure (add to that an archival Timex watch), and certainly not a bad idea in a men’s season marked by multiple collaborations, both in the sports and luxury arenas. The branding opportunity that first gained traction in the 1990s, it would seem, is showing no signs of slowing down. Love.Millennial decade. TH...

fashion / 19.07.2016

Again embracing his German roots, Robert Geller looked to the early ’80s music scene of Berlin for Spring, in particular New Wave. He channeled the unbridled “raw creativity" of Nina Hagen, Einstürzende Neubauten, Palais Schaumburg, and other German-speaking bands—before the tidal wave of the London punk scene. A mix of high and low, loud and reflective, merry and melancholy, it worked beautifully.Squatters played a key role in the city’s social unrest, and by extension its artistic milieu, in those discordant years before the Berlin Wall was finally razed. In a re-created squatters’ lair, complete with graffitied and poster-plastered walls, Geller...

fashion / 17.06.2016

Ruffles and whisper-thin dresses! My absolute favourite. (As is the fact that Beyoncé wore one of her ruffled looks in her “Formation” video earlier this year.) For Resort, Zimmermann continued to riff on the style signatures that made the name, sending out deshabillé dresses in sun-bleached hues. Some of the more romantic options came in dusty floral patterns, but the real heroes were two short-sleeved white numbers, one in cotton organdy, the other in French chantilly lace, that are perfectly lovely. That whimsical touch fell short in other pieces. When done in weightier fabrics, cascades of Zimmermann’s signature ruffles can weigh...