Louis Vuitton | Resort 2020

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Nicolas Ghesquière recently posted on Instagram about the historic TWA Flight Center, he was impressed and so were we. LV!!!

The terminal closed almost 20 years ago, but it still looms large in the public imagination. The producers of last year’s heist movie Ocean’s 8 staged a runway show in its sweeping lobby, and before that, it made an appearance in Steven Spielberg’s Catch Me If You Can. Next week, after a multiyear renovation, it will reopen as a hotel, complete with 500-plus rooms and an infinity pool. The Louis Vuitton Resort show that Ghesquière staged tonight was its unofficial coming-out party.

The big story here, Ghesquière said in a preview, “was getting back to the first feeling I had when I came to New York.” Like most newcomers, he was bowled over by the city’s Art Deco landmarks, bright lights, and famous round-the-clock energy.

Though he played around with Wall Street pinstripes for pantsuits (as sharply tailored as ever) and shirtdresses (with an appealing everyday ease), this was a decorated, flamboyant collection, dedicated to resurrecting the disappearing art of dressing up. Voluptuous swags of panne velvet were draped over the shoulders of going-out tops, tiny bustiers were studded with crystals, and the famous Chrysler Building bas-relief was picked out in geometric metallic embroideries on a zip-front jacket, as well as on jacquards. “As a foreigner,” he said, “I’m not afraid of the clichés.” Apropos of that, layered into the mix were souvenir jackets with skyline embroideries and nods to Gotham superheroes, like Catwoman-ish skullcaps. 

As a rule, the glitzier it got, the better it was. Prime example: Marte Mei van Haaster’s strass-lined capelet wings, which were more precious bauble than ready-to-wear and looked as if they just might’ve owed a small debt to Saarinen’s swooping, neo-Futurist lines.

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