01 Feb PYER MOSS (k͟e͟r͟b͟y͟ j͟e͟a͟n͟-r͟a͟y͟m͟o͟n͟d͟) | S/2020
The Pyer Moss designer, Kerby Jean-Raymond decided to go on hiatus last season. The industry whispered how he’d just won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award and how could he possible disappear. The same critics wondered if he would be able to keep the momentum going. YES HE DID.
The show paid homage to Sister Rosetta Tharpe. A singer-songwriter who rose to popularity in the 1930s and ’40s. Though her legacy has been grossly diminished in music’s history book, she was the one that tuned the sound of rock and roll. A queer black woman in a church,” said Jean-Raymond backstage, moments after the show. “I wanted to explore what that aesthetic might have looked like if her story would have been told.”
This historic lesson of a show was magnanimous. The inception speech delivered by writer Casey Gerald, who is known for his socially conscious black commentary ‘sermoned’ the show with a strength and uplifting voice that resonated with so many people. “Four hundred years have passed since they brought our people to this land . . . and I’ve come here to say you can’t hurt us no more,” said Gerald in reference to the anniversary of slavery in America. “They knew that no matter how their master treated them, no matter how the world treated them, they had freedom on the inside that the world could not take away . . . . And we are here tonight to claim our wings.” The Pyer Moss Tabernacle Drip Choir band drenched in blood took center stage to let loose a certain freedom of soulful creativity rarely seen.
Kerby then released his vision of style with music as a direct and loose inspiration, piano-shaped front panels, embroidered keys, graphics of divas singing and performing, guitars and tambourines. Colors, ranging from gold, pink, blue and absolutely extravagant.
Everyone in fashion thinks it’s cool to echo diversity and inclusion, however Pyer Moss showed us something different. Black ownership.
In a post-show interview backstage at King’s Theatre, he said thought he could use fashion to correct the record. I think rightfully so he’s corrected history.